SETTING UP THE DSO - Drifta Swing Out (shown as a LHS)
The DSO tailgate kitchen is a great option for the tailgate of camper trailers. Very easy to use, you don't have to lift it or pull it out, just swing open the tailgate, then fold it out. Still has all the unique Drifta features of good drawers and lots of bench space and storage - a practical kitchen. Has the skids under the kitchen so when closed, the weight is transfered to the floor of the trailer.
The DSO is bolted to the tailgate, so you just swing it open.	The front will slide up, and fits in the end. It locks into place with a barrel bolt, so it can't slip out.
Now lift the leg section vertical, and drop down the steel legs. Then flip open the top lid onto the timber leg, which, with a small rebate, locks it in the vertical position.	Thats it. Set up your stove and water jerry. The DSO is very simple to use, and provides a neat little kitchen without having to pull or lift anything out.
BOLT ON INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE DSO RHS
STEP 1 Tools you'll need, 5 bolts (say 8-10 mm, 30-40 mm long ) with washers and nyloc nuts, pre drill ( 5 mm ) , drill bit 10 - 12 mm, sockets, drill tape and texta. You'll probably need to remove the number plate and rego holder, these can be later screwed on using timber screws through existing holes into the back of the kitchen.	STEP 2 First remove the front and the draw, then position the kitchen flat on the floor of the trailer about an inch away from the hinge side. If it's not sitting flat, because the trailer floor is a bit uneven, use a small wedge to pack it up. The plastic skids on the bottom need to be sitting flat on the floor.
STEP 3 There'll be 5 marks on the back of the kitchen to show the position of the bolts. Measure the rough position of these marks from say the ground up and the tailgate hinges. NOTE If the tailgate isn't flat like this one, and has ridges or folds, try to position the bolts where it's flat against the kitchen, otherwise you'll have to pack the bolts out. You may just have to position the top bolts a bit higher.	STEP 4 Close the tailgate, and transfer these marks using say a texta. Keep in mind to get these level and straight, as the bolts and washers will be visible from behind the trailer. Also , if one of the bolts is behind where the number plate will go, you could use a smaller head bolt so the plate will sit flat over it. For strength wise , the kitchen only really needs three bolts across the top, but the two on the bottom help keep the kitchen flat on the tailgate, so these can be smaller.
STEP 5 Now drill these marks with the pre drill ( 5mm ).	STEP 6 Close the tailgate and without pushing too hard, drill into the back of the kitchen just enough to make a mark.
STEP 7 Open the tailgate again, drill these holes right through still with the 5 mm bit. Then open the holes up again with the larger drill bit. Try not to push through too hard to avoid chipping out the timber on the inside. Do the same with the holes on the tailgate.	STEP 8 Now lift the kitchen out, and with someone to help, hold the kitchen up while someone pushes the bolts in from the back, then fit the washers and nuts. Do up firm only with socket set or spanner. In this photo we've taken the lid off, this makes it easer to fit the bolts. You can take out the screws holding the lid on if you like.
Here you can see the position of the bolts from the inside. You can see there's room for the bolt position to be moved round a bit. The marks that I put on the back are a guide only, it will depend on your tailgate exactly where they go.	Once the kitchen's on, slowly close the tailgate. You should feel the plastic skids contact the floor of the trailer when you start to close it. This is what you want. This transfers the weight of the kitchen and contents to the floor of the trailer. If it's not touching or too tight you could adjust the bolts a bit either way. On some trailers, the floor sheets of steel can make a sharp edge across the back of the trailer, especially if the sheets protrude past the rhs box tube . This can sometimes dig into the plastic skids. To stop this, use a hammer to knock or bend down the sharpedge where it will contact with the skids.
That's about it. Your DSO kitchen should be now fitted nicely and ready for use. Have a look at the fold out instructions for tips on using your kitchen.
DSO PACKAGE DEAL FITTING INSTRUCTIONS
First fit the DSO, using the DSO bolt on instructions.	Then slide the DSB into the back corner.
Sit the black timber paka along side the DSB, allowing about 3-4 mm clearance. Then mark it with a texta. Keep the paka up as close to the kitchen as possible.	No drill three holes into the floor of the trailer. Keep in mind to drill them in between the floor supports underneath. You need a screw at the front, back and one in the middle, using the screws provided. Drill a 5-6 mm hole only.
You'll have to get someone on top, to hold the paka in place whilst you fit the screws from underneath. If you really don't want to drill holes in the floor of the trailer, then you can use some silicon to stick it down. The screws provided though have a rubber seal, so they won't leak water/dust.	The divider is screwed in place through the angle brackets, with the screws provided. Put this where it best suits your gear. It will also help to stabilise the sides of the box.
If you want to use the legs, pull the box out just enough so they clear the trailer, like shown. See the black clip, you'll need to pull the legs free of this, they won't drop down on their own.	Pull the legs down so they are about vertical. Then you must do up the angle brace. Adjust the leg length to suit the height of the trailer. They can then be left to that length for next time.
If you find the legs are getting jammed when you pull them down, it's because a bit of welding slag has come loose from inside. We clean them out best we can, but sometimes a tiny bit will later on come loose. Just pull the brace apart, and give them a bit of a tap, you'll see some flakes/slag drop out. You can also do this for the adjustable legs if they are also tight/jamming up.	See here , if you have a high sided trailer, when you pull the box out without the legs, it will drop down until the back of the box hits the bedbase. Like shown, it drops down too far, and will want to keep falling out. So..
There is a small 'back' paka included. It can be screwed onto the back of the box, like shown, about 15 - 20 mm below the bedbase. You may have to keep it to one side, so it doesn't hit where the lift up boards are .	Now see the difference. Much better. If you have a lower sided trailer, or we have to cut down a kitchen/box for your trailer, you won't have to do this, as you will only have 15 mm clearance anyway.
The other advantage of the back paka, is depending on how the trailer is made, it can catch on the square steel tubing that most trailers have along the back, and prevents the box from being pulled right out. ie , it acts as a stopper.	There you have it. Pretty easy hey. It will only take an hour to fit, and it will all work perfectly. You will really appreciate having the storage box, as you are constantly packing, unpacking, getting things in/out. It just makes it so much easier. And that is the whole idea right. Having a practical easy setup, so you can quickly set up camp and sit back and have a cuppa. Any questions etc, give me a call, rgds Luke
See also DSB fitting instructions for relevant info.