DOT Frequently Asked Questions

What is the current lead time..
What sort of deposit do you need
Can you deliver australia wide?
Can you offer finance?
Do I need a second battery?
Can I match rims and tyres to my vehicle?
Why do 17 inch tyres cost more?
Can you put a fridge in the DOT 5?
Which is correct, the video’s, or the spec sheet?


At the moment, October 2016, we are booking out Feb, start of March.. so that’s about a four month lead time.. I don’t see it getting any earlier than this.. we are building 8 dots a month, and won’t ever do any more per month.. 8 is our limit.. but, I do try to put one stock trailer in each month, for demo/ photos, stock basically, which is usually sold before it’s built, but if you are desparate for a dot quicker than 4 months, then let us know, you might be able to snag one of the stock ones, that we can build up still for you.. L


Ok, so we normally require a 10 % deposit.. this will get you in the que, currently about 8-10 weeks.. Andrew my DOT manager/ factory foreman, will contact you after about 3-4 weeks, go thru the order with you, chat about things, make sure everything is ok.. then as it gets built, he’ll send a series of photos of the build, at the chassis stage, after the sides go on, before paint booth, after paint booth etc.. so you can sort of see your trailer being made.. then once the trailer is sprayed, and axle / tyres are fitted, and a photo has been sent, then we require a further progress payment of $5000.. the balance of the order can be paid on pickup, either direct deposit or bring a bank cheque…

Now, the other thing that we can do is, that quiet often now, people are going away on a trip, in say 12 weeks time.. well it does seem to take about a month, to talk back and forth re an order, decide what the customer needs/ wants.. but if you are going away in 12 weeks, and you take 4 weeks to decide what to do, then we won’t have it ready in time.. so what we can do , is offer a deal where you can pay a deposit of $1000, but this is FULLY REFUNDABLE for 4 weeks.. with a 8 – 10 week build time, we won’t really be starting the trailer for at least 5 weeks, so there is plenty of time to sort things out.. so this way, you can have 4 weeks to sort out your order, think about things, and after 4 weeks, if you change your mind, no worries we’ll refund the $$.. if you decide to go ahead, then we can get the balance of the 10 % deposit, and get things happening, but you’ll be already half way thru the que, and almost ready to start the build, so you won’t miss out..

Also, don’t forget, you’ll be able to talk directly to Andrew, who is building your trailer, and receive photos sent to your mobile phone, so you can keep in touch with what’s happening.. and I’m always available on phone/ email also.. ta luke


Yes, no worries.. we can send to melb, Adelaide, perth, Darwin, and most major towns.. brissy I can bring them up myself, as we do a trip up there every 5 weeks.. but often brissy sales can come pick up.. prices are roughly, MELBOURNE $1400, BRISBANE $250 (IF I BRING IT, NORMALLY $500) , ADELAIDE $1600, PERTH $2400, DARWIN $2500… it can take up to 2 weeks for delivery, although mostly less than a week..

Freight is insured with the carrier, but we have also taken out our own insurance, that covers our trailers shipped aust wide..


Yes, so couple of customers have used a company in Brisbane, 360 Finance Pty Ltd, they are on Beaudesert Rd Coopers Plains.. Ph: 07 3336 3360 . they have been really good, and do a lot of camper trailers/ Rv’s etc.. so they know the industry, and they have been excellent to deal with.. again , we only found them through a couple of customers who used them, who were very happy with everything.. so yeah some people it works out to do finance. financing/ leasing rates are currently cheapest they have ever been.. I can lease a vehicle almost half the cost of what it was 8 or so years ago… so give them a call if you’d like a quote re finance.. ta luke


If you are just getting a standard DOT, with led lights and actuators, then you don’t need a second battery.. if you are getting a fridge, then you really do need the second battery.. if you get a second battery, we are now upgrading to a 15 amp 240 volt battery charger (from 10 amp standard) , and really you also should have a DC DC charger, which makes sure you are getting a 100 % charge into the batteries.. Projecta just released their new DCDC charger, and they are very good, very cost effective.. (they are water proof, have solar input, and don’t need a trigger wire for the ignition, which complicates things) so we are recommending putting those in now with a dual battery.. even if you have a DCDC charger in your vehicle, for two batteries, you should also have one in the trailer. No point having two batteries, if they aren’t getting a full charge.. the fridge will be taking a lot of charge from the batteries, so they need to be 100% .. if just led lights, actuators, and one battery, then it’s not so important to have the DCDC in the trailer, as long as there is one in the vehicle…


Yes, you can, mostly… we can’t match land rover defenders.. just can’t… pretty much everything else we can.. but we are charging an extra $100 for this.. a few reasons.. it sounds simple, but can get very complicated.. we have to match – stud size, stud spacing, rim size, rim width, rim offset, rim style, hub style, tyre size (width, height, style), then match that to the axle.. mostly, we need to get the rims and tyres here first, fit the tyres, then measure offsets to suit the axle.. offset of a rim is where does the hub face sit, in relation to the rim itself.. ie, right in the center (offset zero) , towards the outside, like a ford ranger (offset plus 25 mm), or set back, like in a cruiser, (offset minus 20 mm) this determines the length of the axle.. the outside edge of the tyre, must be just inside the guards, when fitted to the axle/ trailer.. it’s illegal for it to sit outside, and nothing looks worse, than a tyre that’s sunken inside the guard too far, and also, can scrub on the inside of the trailer itself… so this is very important.. different tyres, can have a different ‘belly, or bulge’… ie, our Achilles tyres we supply, are quiet vertical, but if you supply a different tyre, then it can have a more curved outside face, which affects where it needs to sit… (affecting axle length).. once the offset is determined, we can order the axle… an axle to suit a rim with positive 25 mm offset, would be 50 mm longer than for an axle to suit a zero offset rim… so,,, we can’t order the axle, until the tyres/ rims have been fitted up, and measured.. but there is a 2-3 week lead time to get an axle delivered,.. so we need to order all this well in advance, so it’s here in time for the trailer to be fitted.. nothing worse than having a trailer almost ready, and waiting for the axle to turn up… we have to order these up to two months in advance, of the trailer being ready… also, as you can imagine, ordering individual axles is more expensive than ordering bulk stock axles… and also, as you can see, there is a lot of work organising it all.. I know companies that charge up to $250 just to match a tyre/ rim to the vehicle… and this is why.. so our standard trailer has zero offset rims, 6 stud, with a 245/75/16 tyre.. if you like a different setup, then we need to charge $100 to get it all sorted… ta L

This is from Trent Pitt, has a Dot 6 Army, and a Jeep.. (also runs our finance for dots) so some people are asking about fitting certain rims to the dots, and some, such as wrangler and some VW’s, is very difficult.. this explains some of why we can’t fit a wrangler rim to a dot.. interesting read.. : ) L

G’day Luke
Everything below is about the standard rim I’m assuming
Explored this a fair bit but came up with the same answer each time which was that it couldn’t be done without a lot of machining and spacers no matter who said what initially. To me there was too much “work” that needed to be done to the rim to get this to fit and then there was the issue of hub spacers when trying to fit the rim back on the jeep (if thats the reason for this).
The best (strongest) option was to change the car and not the trailer which was not really cost effective but it did mean I could have the same rims all round. In the end I made sure that the rims on the trailer looked similar to the jeeps (I had black rims on the jeep) for aesthetics but made sure I always carried a puncture repair kit and spares for the jeep and dot. My reasoning was that it is unlikely that I will get 2 unrepairable tyres on the jeep when travelling but if you match the rim size you could always break the bead on the spare DOT tyre and fit to the jeep, hard work but would have a good story!
If you machine out the rim and then run it back on the jeep you then have converted it from the hub/axle bearing all the weight to the lugs. This is not a good thing as I found out. I had aftermarket rims, which all usually have a larger centre bore (so they fit most cars), so the vehicle weight was supported on the lugs not axle, coming down through Kyogle the lugs on the rear passenger went and we were down to 3 wheels, sliding around a corner with the DOT on the back and my wife, 3kids and the dog in the Jeep! I can send photos of this if you want. The tyre & rim ended up a couple of hundred meters through a paddock and into a creek. Pretty average way to start a 2 week trip!!!

That is the same that will happen if you machine the rim to fit the trailer and then put it back on the car. Except you also have a compromised rim, I would never consider machining away that much. The only way I can see around this is using hub/lug spacers on the jeep to use the same rim….not worth it in my opinion as there is enough force there without adding extra parts that aren’t meant to be there

In short….not feasible to do. Its a Jeep thing!!!



If you want to put 17’s on your trailer, the rims are the same price, but the tyres cost quiet a bit more.. not sure exactly why, but basically, 16’s were sort of the industry standard for vehicles, and very common, so 17’s were just costing more cause different.. (old story of bulk buying I think).. 17’s are now becoming much more popular, but yeah the price quiet a bit more…


No , we can’t do this.. needs minimum 1800 length in the trailer to be able to fit the fridge kitchen.. you could, put a smaller 30 ltr fridge, inside the storage box, (not have the front drawers).. if you really want the 47 ltr evakool fridge setup, you need the DOT 6..


“Hi Luke you mentioned on your video for this model that the rhino rack was included with the frame yet I notice here on build your own dot that it is an optional extra. Could you please clarify this for us?”

I get this type of question a bit now, especially after the last dot equip vid.. so, the spec sheet is what is correct.. these do get changed, updated regularly… the video’s , once I edit and put online, I can’t change them, so that’s why I never really mention pricing, or try not to.. but also the vid’s are not scripted, or rehearsed, so yeah while I’m doing my best to make sure the info is 100 % correct, sometimes I slip up, like I mentioned the rhino rack is standard, when it isn’t, and never was.. so yeah , just to clear that up, whatever is on the spec sheets, is correct… : ) L